Skagit Land Trust’s (SLT) Guemes Mountain & Valley Conservation Area protects 289 acres of mature forest, wetlands, agricultural fields, and rocky balds. Its conservation has been knit together over decades through a long-term partnership between SLT, the San Juan Preservation Trust (SJPT), generous landowners, residents of Guemes Island, SLT and SJPT members, and state, federal, tribal, and private foundation partners.
SLT staff at the Guemes Valley barn.
Protection of the Guemes Mountain & Valley Conservation Area ensures that this scenic location is kept in a natural state for the benefit of fish and wildlife, and for the public to enjoy.
This Conservation Area is part of a broader effort of land conservation on Guemes Island and is part of a wildlife corridor with conserved lands managed by SLT, SJPT, private landowners, and Washington State Fish and Wildlife. The Samish Indian Nation and Washington State protect adjacent marine islands.
Site History and Ecology
Each step of conservation on Guemes has happened because of community and partnership. Coast Salish peoples have lived on Guemes Island — known as Qweng7qwengila7 in the Samish language — from time immemorial. They have been long-time, careful stewards on Guemes and other coastal areas. The Samish Indian Nation’s stewardship on the Island continues today as they undertake many projects to support and restore ecological health to our local ecosystems.
Camason top of Guemes Mountain.
Following European settlement, land use and resource patterns changed, affecting both Indigenous communities and local ecosystems. With this transition, industry proposed various plans to develop the land. For example, the valley of what is now SLT’s Guemes Mountain and Valley Conservation Area, was considered as a site for an aluminum smelter in 1966. Conservation-minded Guemes islanders, building on the foundation and long history of stewardship by the Coast Salish, foiled the aluminum plot with a rezoning challenge that went all the way to the Washington State Supreme Court. At a time when a wave of extreme industrialism threatened many beautiful places in Skagit County, this was a crucial victory.
The aluminum plant gave islanders a large enough scare, and it probably did more to galvanize conservation than anything else in the end. Much of the land that is now part of the Guemes Mountain and Valley Conservation Area was purchased by private landowners soon after the aluminum plant proposal fell apart – specifically with an intent that long-term the land would be conserved, not developed. Islanders also donated private conservation easements to SJPT in areas next to what is now the Guemes Mountain and Valley Conservation Area and on other parts of the Island.
In the 1990’s, landowners such as Joost Businger and others helped the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife secure a 39-acre wildlife sanctuary at Square Harbor. This sanctuary forms the eastern edge of the Guemes Conservation Corridor.
Guemes Mountain Summit
At 688 feet, Guemes Mountain is the highest point on Guemes Island and features stunning views of the San Juan Islands, Mount Baker, the North Cascades mountains, and the Skagit delta. The mountain features five acres of a unique prairie habitat with a wide variety of wildflowers, including Camas lily, Fawn lily and Chocolate lily. This mountaintop prairie also serves as important nesting habitat for ground birds.
It is suggested that the bald top of Guemes Mountain has been treeless for many years, possibly through a combination of fire (either natural or human-led) and most recently due to logging and a severe, hurricane force windstorm in 1990. It is believed that the grassland area was once larger and maintained by pre-colonial Indigenous peoples of the Coast Salish tribes. Its current conservation started with a heart drawn on a map.
Approaching the Guemes Mountain summit.
In 2006, Guemes Islanders were meeting to discuss what they hoped their Island would look like far into the future. A large heart was drawn on top of Guemes Mountain, which at the time was privately owned. Soon after, this property went was listed for sale. Islanders asked SLT to help protect the top of Guemes Mountain. The price tag was in the millions of dollars. By early 2008, Guemes islanders, SLT, SJPT, and members of both organizations were all working together to save the mountain’s 70-acre summit. The property was purchased in the shadow of the Great Recession in 2009 due to the dedication and generosity of over 500 donors. Joost Businger, who had earlier purchased an undeveloped cell tower site on the very top, donated that site to SLT to culminate the campaign. SLT later purchased 15 more acres from adjacent mountain top owners.
Although the forest lands of Guemes Mountain’s summit were blown down or logged most recently in the 1990s, western red alder, willow, and other early successional species have begun to grow on the upper slopes of Guemes Mountain. Hikers today can find a mix of hardwood, softwood and shrub species including madrone, osoberry, grand fir, western hemlock, bitter cherry, pacific yew, red flowering current, and native rose. The section of the mountain that transitions from second growth softwoods, including douglas-fir and western hemlock, to hardwood species is an excellent place for viewing woodpeckers.
Guemes Valley and Forest
Guemes Valley and Forest.
In 2017, 127 acres of mature forest and agricultural land, including the historic barn were donated to SLT. In 2020, 77 more acres of the valley were donated. Maturing Douglas Fir, western Hemlock, big Leaf Maple and cedar forests cover the lower elevations of Guemes Mountain. Sword fern, salal, Oregon grape, vine maple, and an abundance of mosses and lichens are present. The valley below the forest was historically a marsh and has been returning to that ecological feature naturally over the past decade. Connected to Cayou Creek and private lands protected with conservation easements, it provides habitat for a number of species including bald eagles, turkey vultures, swallows, warblers, finches, snipes, deer, coyotes, beaver, and amphibians.
Guemes Island relies on a sole source aquifer, and this wetland is the major contributor to recharge that aquifer. Although hard to believe now in its peacefulness, this was the site of the proposed aluminum smelter. These parcels are owned and managed by SLT and our partner the SJPT holds a conservation easement on them. They will be protected forever in their natural state.
Access
Skagit Land Trust collaborated with Washington Trails Association to build a 1.2 mile long trail up the mountain in 2010-2011. The trail winds up through the forest and ends at the beautiful mountaintop with views of the surrounding San Juan islands.
Parking is available for four cars, and a bike rack is at the trailhead. If you bike, bring your own lock. Do not park on the side of the road because parked cars will block the ability of Guemes fire trucks to pass. Since parking is limited, we suggest leaving extra cars at the Guemes Ferry free parking lot or in Anacortes.
Local illustrator and cartographer Jocelyn Curry illustrated a map of the Guemes Mountain Trail.
Pockets of wildflowers survive on thin soils of the mountain top. To protect this fragile habitat, please stay on designated trails. Guemes Mountain is a day hiking site only, with dogs on leash and waste carried out. We do not allow biking, horseback riding, motorized vehicles, fires, or overnight camping. The trail has an elevation gain of 550 feet.
How to Get There
Take State Route 20 west to Anacortes. Continue on State Route 20 Spur west. Turn right on Commercial Avenue. Turn left at 12th street. Turn right at I Avenue. Board the Guemes Island/Anacortes Ferry. From the Guemes Island Ferry terminal, turn right onto S. Shore Road (Southshore Road). Follow for 1.6 miles. Turn right on S. Shore Road follow for another 0.4 miles. Look for a gravel parking area on the right.